This time of year, no matter what grocery store you go into, you're likely to find bins, boxes and crates full of apples all over the produce section. There may be no more versatile fruit on the planet, or one that comes in such a mindbending number of varieties.

We're all familiar with "big red," the softball-sized deep red McIntosh that we had to lever out of our Christmas stockings to get at the candy. The Golden Delicious, with its sugar content high enough to wire out a busload of third-graders, is another all-time favorite, as is the Granny Smith, with a tart bite that will make you pucker your whole face up even as you enjoy its taste.

However, with improved shipping methods and the constant evolution of the American palate, new and different varieties are showing up in your stores all the time. For those of us who live in warmer climes, where apples do not grow as abundantly, now is the time to go a-hunting to the gourmet markets and even the health food shops for exotic apples new to our taste buds.

Let's look at a few of the less-well-known varieties. You might find something worth seeking out!

Macoun: This is a very small apple, hardly larger than a plum. It's about a four-biter, with a pure white flesh that simply melts in your mouth. It's definitely more on the sweet than tart side of the scale, but not cloyingly so. This would be a perfect lunchtime, after-sandwich apple.

Pink Lady: I've had a bit of trouble finding this one lately, which I hope is only temporary, because it's one of my favorites. It's medium-sized, with a slightly bumpy, red-to-gold skin. It is a wonderfully balanced apple, with a very thin skin that never sticks in your teeth and a firm, VERY juicy flesh. Have a napkin handy when you eat this one.

Honeycrisp: If you like your apples sweet, the name of this one alone will tell you you're in the right neighborhood. One of its genetic parents is the Macoun, which is where the meltaway flesh comes in. This apple might just make your kids forget such less-healthful sweet treats as hard candy and soda pop.

Braeburn: Much like the people of its New Zealand home, this fruit is a great combination of sweet and tart. It stores very well, and is ranked among the top 10 apple varieties by the folks who do such ratings. It's a good general-use apple, at home in the lunchbox or under the pie crust.

Empire: A cross between a Red Delicious and a McIntosh, this one's your first choice for fall baking and pie-making. It also makes a VERY groovy caramel apple.

Speaking of caramel apples, the folks at Michigan Apples provide the following recipe, which is best made with Michigan's own Empire apples.

Caramel Apples And Carrots

3 c. sliced, peeled Michigan Apples

1 ½ c. peeled, baby carrots

½ c. water

1/8 tsp. salt

2 tsp. margarine

½ c. firmly packed brown sugar

½ tsp. cinnamon

1/3 c. dried tart cherries

Place apples, carrots, water and salt in 3-quart saucepan. Cover and cook over medium heat until water starts to boil. Reduce heat and simmer 3 minutes. Drain.

Add remaining ingredients, tossing gently until combined. Cook over medium heat 3 minutes longer or until sugar is dissolved and apples are glazed. Serve hot with turkey or pork. Yield: 6 servings.