For many outdoor cooks, "grilling with beer" means flipping burgers with one hand and sipping an ice-cold brewski with the other. But a growing group of skilled grillers are finding that a well-crafted beer can be more than just an accompaniment to hot dogs and hamburgers.

Lucy Saunders, whose book, "Grilling With Beer," and corresponding Web sites GrillingWithBeer.com and BeerCook.com feature extensive research on grilling with beer, and sauces and marinades with beer, says using beer as part of grilling foods can be tricky.

"Truth is that grilling demands constant attention and quick reflexes to keep food from scorching," she says, adding that it also doesn't take long to add the flavor of beer to food.

"Craft beer offers lots of caramel and roasted-grain flavors that enhance the caramelized proteins of grilled meats, and some craft beers offer fruity tastes from yeasty esters that offset the herbal flavors of sauces and spices," Saunders says. "I also think the slightly bitter edge of a well-hopped ale extends the heat from chilies and hot spices."

Saunders enjoys making beer-based marinades (you can find the recipe for one below and several more in her book and on her Web sites), which allow the meat to become infused with the beer's flavors as it is being tenderized.

"I like to experiment with adding beer-based sauces at different times when grilling," she says. "Marinades made with beer offer just a hint of hops and malt taste. Often, you will get the truest taste of beer by basting on a sauce or glaze right before serving ... Some grill cooks just put beer in a spray bottle and keep it by the grill to manage flare-ups -- a quick spritz with beer will douse the flame and add a bit of flavor at the same time."

According to Saunders, a good beer-based marinade should incorporate some oil for moisture, beer for flavor and acidity (for tenderization), a bit of sweetener and aromatic and flavorful herbs and/or fruit for flavor.

Vegetarians also can get in on the beer-and-grilling act: Saunders touts asparagus, grilled in a light marinade of olive oil and framboise (a raspberry-flavored beer) as a perennial favorite.

Here is one of Lucy Saunders' beer-baste sauces -- which she enjoys on fish or chicken. She likes a crisp, fruity pale ale to go with it during the meal, though she says she would use a strong golden maibock or dubbel in the baste.

Thai Basil Ale Baste with Golden Ale and Coconut
from beercook.com

1 C. coconut milk
¼ C. unsweetened coconut flakes
½ C. chopped Thai basil, packed (Thai basil has smaller leaves and spicier taste than Italian basil)
2 Tbsp. minced scallion (white base only)
1 Tbsp. minced garlic, peeled and chopped
1 Tbsp. fresh grated ginger
1 tsp. ground white pepper
Pinch kosher salt
1 Tbsp. palm sugar or golden cane syrup
1 C. strong golden ale
1 Tbsp. golden rum

Blend all ingredients in a blender until very smooth. Place in saucepan and cook 5 minutes over very low heat to meld flavors. Use to brush on skewers of grilled shrimp. Makes about 2 cups.
© 2005 Lucy Saunders

The next step, of course, is to determine which beer to serve with your grilled creation. A good rule of thumb is to use the same beer in which you marinated your meat (or veggies). If you decided to save the beer only for sipping with your supper, though, here are some suggestions:

Complement

A beer made with a touch of smoked malt can really enhance the goodness of grilled meats and smoked salmon. Try smoked porters, German rauchbiers and a rather obscure style of beer known as steinbier or "stone beer" (because the brewer throws hot rocks into the liquid to heat it up).

Ambers and brown ales also pick up some of the sweet, carmelized flavors of grilled meats and vegetables.

"The malty, hoppy notes in beer are natural partners to the caramel and spicy flavors of lots of barbecued and grilled foods," Saunders says. "The carbonation in beer adds another level of enjoyment. It is quenching and refreshes the palate for the next bite."

You can complement textures as well as flavors: A spritzy, slightly spicy witbier or a citrusy wheat beer could be the perfect selection for a lightly textured fillet of grilled fish (halibut, cod or mahi-mahi). A silky-smooth stout with a richly marbled grilled steak is magical for some people.

Contrast

Contrasting flavors work well, too. Crisp, slightly bitter to highly bitter beers often work especially well with heavier-fat fares.

"Sometimes with grilled steak, for instance, you almost want a lighter beer like a pilsner or kölsh," says Tom Dalldorf, editor and publisher of Celebrator Beer News, the country's oldest "brewspaper." "That also might be when it's time to pull out the IPAs and pale ales."

Dalldorf says one of his favorite combinations is crab legs steamed whole on the grill, paired with a hoppy American pale ale. The sweetness of the crab contrasts perfectly with the slight bitterness of the beer.

"It's a flavor combo not to be denied," he says.

The key is to experiment different "flavor combos" until you find the ones that rings true for you. Research has never been quite so fun -- or so tasty!