Usually when you dine at a restaurant, something is frequently amiss — either the food is iffy, the wine is not up to par or the service is bad. It's hard to find one place where everything is just right, but Roy's meets that expectation, and more. And although the restaurant has been in Orlando for several years, a new chef on board gave cause for a fresh visit.

From the minute the valet boldly welcomes guests with a confident Aloha to the time he bids them farewell with a sincere Thank you, please come back soon, everything is top-notch.

Roy's is the namesake of Chef Roy Yamaguchi, a name familiar to fans of cooking shows seen on PBS and the Food Network. What may not be as familiar is Roy's inventive cuisine known as Hawaiian Fusion, a delightful combination of exotic spices and flavors and an emphasis on seafood and, of course, only the freshest ingredients. The fusion concept goes beyond food and includes the Polynesian decor and ambiance inside the restaurant.

What's most striking about Roy's are the wonderful dishes painstakingly prepared. The menu is where the concept of fusion takes on multiple meanings. It marries the classic recipes of Chef Yamaguchi, noted on the menu with a "Y," with creations of the local chef, so each Roy's restaurant is unique to its location. Chef Ryan Leto had a big plate to fill as he took over the reigns from Greg Ritchie. But he's well on his way to making his mark on south Orlando's restaurant row and beyond.

My partner and I dined on some wonderfully prepared appetizers. An attention-grabbing blend of flavors was found in the Spicy Ahi Tartar & Prosciutto Seared Ahi, combining brilliantly tender and very fresh Ahi tuna with a deliciously salted Prosciutto. We also sampled Roy's Original Hawaiian Blackened Island Ahi. Alone, the dish would have been divine, but when merged with Spicy Soy Mustard Butter, it created one of the best taste experiences I can recall. Bar none.

My dining partner also enjoyed the Hawaii Kai Style Crispy Crab Cakes with Spicy Sesame Butter Sauce and the Crunchy Golden Lobster Potstickers with Spicy Togarashi Miso Butter Sauce, all outstandingly delectable.

We shared the Shinko Dragon Asian Pear Salad — a dazzling combination of tart, smooth blue cheese, candied macadamia nuts and topped with a Red Wine Tarragon Vinaigrette. The salad made for an excellent transition to the entrée portion of the meal.

If you're craving unusual seafood creations, then Roy's entrées are your gateway to nirvana. Several of the staff recommended the Wood Grilled Swordfish, which fused the traditional taste of grilled swordfish with both a spinach gorgonzola crust and Blue Crab Chardonnay Sauce. A celestial experience.

Other entrées sampled included: Shiitake Crusted Hawaiian Walu with Coconut Pernod Creamed Spinach, Herb Truffle Seared U-10 Sea Scallops with Crispy Vegetable Ravioli and Teppanyaki Seared Black Tiger Prawns. For those who don't enjoy edible gifts from the sea, we also tried the Korean BBQ Filet Mignon with Frites & Ko Chu Jang Worcestershire Fusion. The beef was a tender and delicious with a blending of flavors that's definitely different from your typical BBQ fare.

Of course, all good meals must finish with dessert, and once again, Roy's takes things up a notch. We sampled the illustrious Roy's Melting Hot Chocolate Soufflé — pure chocolate decadence. It was gooey smooth chocolate inside a perfectly prepared outer soufflé, served hot and topped with ice cream. Imagine being on an island (Hawaiian, of course) and having a volcano erupt with nothing but hot, steamy chocolate. That's what you get. Don't leave Roy's without it.

My dining partner and I also enjoyed fine cocktails with our meal. A drink of particular interest was the Roy's Signature Hawaiian Martini, a perfect blend of Skyy Vodka, Stoli Vanil Vodka and Malibu Coconut Rum, and infused with fresh pineapple.

Roy's also boasts an extensive wine selection, with recommendations to properly enhance the flavors of its creations. There are 140 wines served by the glass, and the wait staff, though not sommeliers, are intensely trained in the area of wine pairing.

And lest we forget those littlest of diners, Roy's also makes children feel welcome with bookshelves and other special areas created just for them. They can work with the servers to create a special sundae for dessert, and many times, a baby can be found being entertained by the staff, so the parents can savor the Roy's experience.

Roy's | 7760 W. Sand Lake Rd. | Orlando | 407-352-4844 | www.roysrestaurant.com

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-- Michelle Yoffee-Beard