Orlando is transforming into a more urban and modern city, and many local establishments reflect this new attitude. However, in the case of The Capital Grille, it's more old-meets-new — and that's a good thing.

When arriving at The Capital Grille, the first thing that stands out is the Old World ambiance, which is not surprising since the chain has long been established in such historic cities as Washington D.C. and Boston. It has managed to bring this ambiance — dark, rich mahogany wood and plush leather booths — to a Central Florida location, creating a wonderful place to dine.

Besides the welcoming, friendly staff, who called guests by name, my dining partner and I also took note of individual wine lockers, featuring the names of some of Central Florida's well-known businesses and individuals engraved on gold plates. Lockers, to store wine purchased from the restaurant, can be rented for a yearly fee.

After walking through a field of white tablecloths and shiny silverware, we were seated at our table. Looking around, there were traditional, historical portraits of people we later learned were famous Floridians. Our waiter, also a sommelier, seemed to know almost as much about history as he did about wine.

Imagine 5,000 bottles of wine in all varieties possible. Then imagine that some of those wines are on a special Captain's List, featuring a number of the world's most sought after vintages. There's no imagination necessary because that's exactly what you'll find at The Capital Grille. With sommeliers running past you, serving food and wine, it's very easy to get recommendations if you ask.

The main attraction, of course, is the food and beverages. For a cocktail, I'd recommend Stoli Doli — with pineapple infused vodka — for a very smooth starting beverage. So smooth, in fact, that there was virtually no alcohol taste.

My partner and I enjoyed an appetizer of pan-fried calamari with hot cherry peppers. The batter was delicate, but the flavor was not. It had an intense yet pleasant taste that hit after the first bite. Surprisingly, our waiter served it with a nice Riesling. Yes, a sweet Riesling normally consumed after dinner. He explained that the sweetness of the wine would cut the hotness of the calamari. And he was right.

This was followed by the Wedge salad topped with some of the creamiest, tangiest chunks of blue cheese I've ever eaten. This was complemented with champagne, another interesting pairing chosen to enhance the flavor of the blue cheese.

Entrées at The Capital Grille mainly consist of classic steak and seafood, with a few very unique twists. Both of us tried selections from the chef's personal suggestions. I had the porcini-rubbed Delmonico with 8-year-old Balsamic vinegar. The porcini rub and vinegar truly augmented the flavor of the meat, which was broiled to perfection. Delicious. My friend enjoyed the Kona-crusted, dry-aged sirloin with shallot butter. The Kona added an earthy flavor. It never occurred to us that a coffee flavor on a piece of beef would be a good combination — but it was. We'd go back again just for this steak.

Along with the steaks, we also enjoyed a side of Sam's Mashed Potatoes, which sent my partner, a mashed potato expert, into pure potato bliss. For rabid mashed potato fans, this is nirvana.

The dining downside? We were so stuffed that it seemed impossible to sample the desserts, but we succumbed and managed to try some exquisite sweet treats. The coconut cream pie, served in a macaroon-styled crust and topped with a caramel rum sauce, was rich and bursting with flavor. Then there was the chocolate hazelnut cake. Oh, that chocolate hazelnut cake. It was thick and moist with intense chocolate to satisfy any chocolate craving. A top-notch port ended a most excellent dining experience.

The Capital Grille is located in Point Orlando, near the Orange County Convention Center and is open for lunch. If you're looking for comfortable elegance and a first-rate dining experience, think of this restaurant first. There's something for everyone, and it won't disappoint.

The Capital Grille | 9101 International Dr. | Orlando | 407-370-4392 | www.thecapitalgrille.com

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-- Michelle Yoffee-Beard